In Toronto, the legendary delis of yore like Switzer's, Shopsy's (the authentic deli headed headed by Izzy Shopowitz on Spadina which I was not old enough to have eaten and not the horrendous Industrial imprint which now bares his name) moved from the original Toronto Jewish settlements in Kensington and St John's Ward into more spacious Uptown homes.
As such, the area of the city north of Eglinton probably has the greatest number of quality Toronto delis. Here are my three favorites:
The first deli Sandwich (and possibly Sandwich period) I ever ate came from Wolfie's. While I may have begged my parents to go there due to the appeal of the cartoonish wolf logo, the the soft texture coupled with the saltiness and smoke of the pastrami and corned beef, probably sparked an obsession that led to the creation of TGCSB. I like to think of it as my Sandwich Cavern Club.
Wolfie's has got a lot of important things I look for in a deli. On top of having a quality Sandwich, the other major factor I look for its character. Now I don't need to be physically assaulted and taken outside to read a menu like this:
but I like a Deli where the owner/proprietor gives a little schitck. And David Gelberman delivers, fiddling with his (Greyish market) Satellite and kibbutz with all of the Sheppard ave regulars. Whenever I ask for my sandwich hand-cut complains (Why would ANYONE want it Hand-cut? Oh you spent 4 years in Montreal, Still). The restaurant is a like a mini museum/shrine to Coca-Cola, with David often extolling you to buy a glass bottle Coke and open it with his vintage vending machine.
Like previously reviewed Mutual Street and the like, David serves Lester's smoked meat from Montreal. Somehow the flavors are just much more alive at Wolfie's, and the steaming is much more even resulting in a much juicier product. It is a credit to David and deli-men and women everywhere when they can make an industrial product taste artesianal.
The double rye is an intelligent, if carb heavy technique. It allows for the deli-heads who prefer platters to assemble there own, less jaw exercising version of the Sandwich. I ate the smaller half a whole and divided the larger half into 2 smaller sandwiches (which kinda reminds me of the Classic Carnegie Deli Mitosis, where a singular Herculean Carnegie Deli Pastrami was turned into 8 normal sized Sandwiches)
The meat, as mentioned is very juicy, and has good hits of salt and garlic spice throughout.
Eating this Sandwich most recently after an exam (something about enforcing Trademarks mentally triggered deli meat in my brain, maybe it was reading about -Sandwich related caselaw e.g. Consorzio del Prosciutto di Parma v. Maple Leaf Meats) I remembered just how this Sandwich triggered a life long love affair with Deli. Its still got it.
Judgment: 8.25/10 Opas
As well, Wolfie's offers many other deli options:
So I suggest if your up north or just in the mood for a kibbitz and Sandwich, hit up Wolfie's.
Pancer's
Moe Pancer's has a long and storied family history to it. Founded by Moe in 1957, the restaurant now run (after a brief scare were I worried it would be sold outside of the family a couple of years ago) is run by Grandson Lorne.
If any deli remains quintessentially Toronto its Pancer's. Its meats come from local supplier Chicago 58, it is one of the last places in Toronto that serves local "Baby Beef", and it has black and white photos all over the walls showing pieces of Toronto deli (and Pancer family) history. The waitresses are the ones of deli legend who are equal parts knowledgeable, helpful and cantankerous.
I started off by splitting a Baby Beef Sandwich. Served on Silverstein's omnipresent rye, Baby Beef is essentially milk-fed Veal Shoulder (which in the 50's was considerably cheaper than regular beef), lightly brined, and dyed Pink/Red. The result is a much more mild version of your typical Pastrami or Corned Beef, which is subtle but delicious (but will always remain a bench player in Jesse's pantheon of Deli Meats):
The Corned Beef is quite possibly Toronto's best. Spicy, peppery and well-marbled, the love and care that each brisket has undergone at Pancer's is readily apparent. Each bite is alive with hints of pimento and cracked garlic, complimented with a suitable roster of mustards. Even Jay's tie (featured below) was hungry to get at this Corned Beef.
To liven things up, I also suggest occasionally getting the Sandwich on an Onion Roll.
All of the deli offerings are great, the mood is one of a genuine deli and each bite tastes like a little piece of history (in the Good Sense obviously, not like the meat tastes like it was around to see the after effects of the Teapot Dome Scandal)
Judgment: 9/10 Opas
Centre Street Deli
When I get asked by ex-pat Montrealers' were to get the best Viande-Fume substitute, I tend to refer them to Centre St Deli. Founded by Mischpacha of previously reviewed Snowden Deli, Centre Street has been keeping grizzled Montrealers at bay since 1988.
Unlike my friends at Wolfie's, the Smoked Meat here is only hand-cut. I am of the opinion that this is crucial in deli. Although it is time-consuming and can lead to many a sprained wrist, hand-cutting ensures that each piece is well-marbled and juicy.
The Briskets are well-steamed, hand-sliced, then delicately placed on top of rye and painted with yellow mustard.
A warning though, notwithstanding the deliciousness of this Sandwich, REMEMBER TO REMOVE THE TOOTHPICK BEFORE CONSUMPTION.
Centre street, like Snowdon, offers the option of regular or 'olde-fashioned' (aka extra spiced) and I tend to opt for the later, as I prefer lots of that crack-like combo of garlic and pepper in my deli meats.
While it's a notch below its Mtl cousin Snowdon as well as the behemouth that is Schwartz's, Centre St is just about as close as you can get to real Montreal Smoked Meat without boarding a 5:00 p.m Via express train
Judgment: 9/10 Opas.
As well, Wolfie's offers many other deli options:
So I suggest if your up north or just in the mood for a kibbitz and Sandwich, hit up Wolfie's.
Pancer's
Moe Pancer's has a long and storied family history to it. Founded by Moe in 1957, the restaurant now run (after a brief scare were I worried it would be sold outside of the family a couple of years ago) is run by Grandson Lorne.
If any deli remains quintessentially Toronto its Pancer's. Its meats come from local supplier Chicago 58, it is one of the last places in Toronto that serves local "Baby Beef", and it has black and white photos all over the walls showing pieces of Toronto deli (and Pancer family) history. The waitresses are the ones of deli legend who are equal parts knowledgeable, helpful and cantankerous.
I started off by splitting a Baby Beef Sandwich. Served on Silverstein's omnipresent rye, Baby Beef is essentially milk-fed Veal Shoulder (which in the 50's was considerably cheaper than regular beef), lightly brined, and dyed Pink/Red. The result is a much more mild version of your typical Pastrami or Corned Beef, which is subtle but delicious (but will always remain a bench player in Jesse's pantheon of Deli Meats):
The Corned Beef is quite possibly Toronto's best. Spicy, peppery and well-marbled, the love and care that each brisket has undergone at Pancer's is readily apparent. Each bite is alive with hints of pimento and cracked garlic, complimented with a suitable roster of mustards. Even Jay's tie (featured below) was hungry to get at this Corned Beef.
To liven things up, I also suggest occasionally getting the Sandwich on an Onion Roll.
All of the deli offerings are great, the mood is one of a genuine deli and each bite tastes like a little piece of history (in the Good Sense obviously, not like the meat tastes like it was around to see the after effects of the Teapot Dome Scandal)
Judgment: 9/10 Opas
Centre Street Deli
When I get asked by ex-pat Montrealers' were to get the best Viande-Fume substitute, I tend to refer them to Centre St Deli. Founded by Mischpacha of previously reviewed Snowden Deli, Centre Street has been keeping grizzled Montrealers at bay since 1988.
Unlike my friends at Wolfie's, the Smoked Meat here is only hand-cut. I am of the opinion that this is crucial in deli. Although it is time-consuming and can lead to many a sprained wrist, hand-cutting ensures that each piece is well-marbled and juicy.
The Briskets are well-steamed, hand-sliced, then delicately placed on top of rye and painted with yellow mustard.
A warning though, notwithstanding the deliciousness of this Sandwich, REMEMBER TO REMOVE THE TOOTHPICK BEFORE CONSUMPTION.
Centre street, like Snowdon, offers the option of regular or 'olde-fashioned' (aka extra spiced) and I tend to opt for the later, as I prefer lots of that crack-like combo of garlic and pepper in my deli meats.
While it's a notch below its Mtl cousin Snowdon as well as the behemouth that is Schwartz's, Centre St is just about as close as you can get to real Montreal Smoked Meat without boarding a 5:00 p.m Via express train
Judgment: 9/10 Opas.
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